THE CHARM OF VENICE
The maritime economy of Venice's early years has since given way to tourism. There are a lot of people here! However, there's a good reason for that! All of my images of Venice became reality as our vaporetto (water taxi) dropped us off at the Rialto Bridge for a short hike over the cobblestones to our beautiful Hotel Serenissima in the heart of the city. We were immediately absorbed into the sights the city is famous for: canals, bridges, gondolas and palaces, the aromas of cafes and gelaterie (gelato shops) and the chiming of the bells at St. Mark's.
PIAZZA SAN MARCO
St. Mark's Square is the bustling center of Venice, especially when the cruise ships come in. But, if you read the tips in Rick Steves' guidebooks for seeing St. Mark's basilica (see Bag Check) and the Doge's Palace, you'll breeze by all the "cruisers". Also on the square is the campanale, a bell tower which stands over 300 feet tall. An observatory is at the top, fortunately accessible by elevator (or stairs if you're energetic). A great time to visit the square is at night, when the "cruisers" are gone, and you can get a square side seat at a cafe, or, if you're lucky like we were, enjoy an impromptu classical concert. Whatever you do, don't feed the pigeons - it's against the law!
GONDOLA RIDE
Carrie suggested we book our Gondola ride for dusk, a great suggestion! So, we booked two gondolas for ten of us at 9 pm. Not only are there fewer gondolas on the canals, there aren't as many motorboats either. The setting sun shimmers on the water and the reflection on the pastel stucco of the 13th - 18th century residences and cafes surrounding it are beautiful. Once interior lights go on, you can peek inside the darling little buildings to witness a little bit of Venetian life.
Our gondolier explained that he was required to complete 400 hours of training and pass a driving test. It helps to have a mentor, which explains why most gondoliers are 2nd or 3rd generation gondoliers, or more. He taught us a little about the gondola itself. The metal band "ferro" running down the front of the gondola is shaped like an “S”, for the winding Grand Canal of Venice. The six prongs facing away from the gondola, represent the six sestiere (districts) of Venice. The prong pointing in the other direction, represents the island of Giudecca, just south of the main islands that make up Venice. The top of the design represents the cap of the Doge, the elected leader of Venice and the little wave like shape between the top and the prongs, represents the oldest Grand Canal bridge, the Rialto.
There are only 3 boat yards left that build gondolas. It can take up to two years to build a gondola, using many types of wood, and 280 pieces to put together. Gondoliers take great pride in their boat, and in the late evening you can see them meticulously cleaning and covering them to protect them from the elements.
Our gondolier explained that he was required to complete 400 hours of training and pass a driving test. It helps to have a mentor, which explains why most gondoliers are 2nd or 3rd generation gondoliers, or more. He taught us a little about the gondola itself. The metal band "ferro" running down the front of the gondola is shaped like an “S”, for the winding Grand Canal of Venice. The six prongs facing away from the gondola, represent the six sestiere (districts) of Venice. The prong pointing in the other direction, represents the island of Giudecca, just south of the main islands that make up Venice. The top of the design represents the cap of the Doge, the elected leader of Venice and the little wave like shape between the top and the prongs, represents the oldest Grand Canal bridge, the Rialto.
There are only 3 boat yards left that build gondolas. It can take up to two years to build a gondola, using many types of wood, and 280 pieces to put together. Gondoliers take great pride in their boat, and in the late evening you can see them meticulously cleaning and covering them to protect them from the elements.
DOGE'S PALACE
The Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace) was home to the Doge, the Republic of Venice's elected ruler. We took the "secret itineraries" tour which began in the palace's courtyard. From there we took a very narrow, steep stairway down past some tiny little prison cells into the offices of the Doge's staff. Up some stairs again we viewed the room which contained the "Secret Archives" of the Council of Ten, rulers of Venice from the early 1300's to the late 1700's. These archives contained dossiers on citizens suspected of wrongdoing. Venetians were encouraged to rat out their neighbors!
After passing through the Torture Room, which displayed every medieval weapon imaginable, we arrived in the original prison, and entered the first cell where Casanova was incarcerated. |
The Bridge of Sighs, built in 1614 to link the Doge’s Palace to the new prison. Casanova was eventually moved to the new prison, from which he escaped in 1757. The "Bridge of Sighs" led prisoners from the courtroom to their prison cell, and, it is said, that as they looked out of the bridge's small windows, they would "sigh" at the realization of their last glimpse of Venice and their loss of freedom.
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A STROLL THROUGH VENICE
Venice is a very walkable city. We started out one morning and just wandered (and got lost). But, when we got tired, we rested on a bench at a park, on the steps at a gondola harbor, or with a glass of wine at an uncrowded cafe. When we were done, we just took a vaporetto and headed for the hotel!