RETURNING TO ROME |
We traveled to Rome in 2010 and did all the touristy stuff there - Forum, Colisseum, Vatican, etc. During this trip, since it was our final destination, we just wanted to relax and enjoy the city, the food, and see a few things we didn't see the first time.
SUNDAY IN THE VILLA BORGHESE GARDENS
If you want to feel like a Roman, spend a Sunday afternoon in the Borghese Gardens. The gardens are a wonderful respite from the crowded, traffic ridden streets of downtown Rome. Cars aren't allowed in most of this area.
Modes of transportation include roller blades, bikes, strollers, scooters, horses, train and electric bicycles. There are over 225 acres of gardens, statues, fountains, paths, cafes, snack bars and even a lake and a zoo! The Galleria Borghese is one of three museums in the park and one of our favorites! You absolutely must reserve a time to visit but it's worth it. It feels like you were invited to a friend's home to see their art! No crowds and plenty of space to view the sculptures and paintings by famous artists, including Bernini, Raphael and Rubens. |
ROME FOOD TOUR
The first stop on our tour was the market at the Campo de Fiori. There is stall after stall of delicious fruits, vegetables, meats, spices, flowers etc.
Next we walked a few steps to Salsamenteria Ruggeri. This grocery store, in the heart of Campo de Fiori, opened in 1919. It looks like an American deli, with cheeses from every region of Italy and the Alps, all kinds of sausages and meats (beautifully displayed in the front window), fresh and dried pastas, herbs and spices, aged olive oils and balsamic vinegars, French and Italian wines, Champagne and Prosecco and a lot of premade, fresh delicacies that smelled and looked good, but I wasn't sure what they were exactly!
Next we walked a few steps to Salsamenteria Ruggeri. This grocery store, in the heart of Campo de Fiori, opened in 1919. It looks like an American deli, with cheeses from every region of Italy and the Alps, all kinds of sausages and meats (beautifully displayed in the front window), fresh and dried pastas, herbs and spices, aged olive oils and balsamic vinegars, French and Italian wines, Champagne and Prosecco and a lot of premade, fresh delicacies that smelled and looked good, but I wasn't sure what they were exactly!
Here we were treated to a buffalo mozzarella tasting and a sample of mortadella.
Our guide explained that mozzarella is made in the Campagna region of southern Italy, created from the milk of the Italian Water Buffalo. In Italy, they don't serve buffalo mozzarella soaked in olive oil and herbs like we do in the U.S. Only pure mozzarella, swimming in a pool of milky whey, is good enough for the Italians. No preservatives means it must be consumed within days of production.
Mortadella is an Italian cured sausage, made of ground pork, and fat taken from a pig's throat. Spices and sometimes pine nuts or pistachios are added. Then it's boiled and mashed, stuffed into casings like a sausage and cooked. Mortadella in Italy is produced in Bologna, but don't compare it to American baloney--they don't like that!
Our guide explained that mozzarella is made in the Campagna region of southern Italy, created from the milk of the Italian Water Buffalo. In Italy, they don't serve buffalo mozzarella soaked in olive oil and herbs like we do in the U.S. Only pure mozzarella, swimming in a pool of milky whey, is good enough for the Italians. No preservatives means it must be consumed within days of production.
Mortadella is an Italian cured sausage, made of ground pork, and fat taken from a pig's throat. Spices and sometimes pine nuts or pistachios are added. Then it's boiled and mashed, stuffed into casings like a sausage and cooked. Mortadella in Italy is produced in Bologna, but don't compare it to American baloney--they don't like that!
Best pizza in Rome? Head to a bakery. According to our guide, bakeries are the ONLY place to get pizza. I guess it's all about the crust. We walked across the street to Forno Campo de Fiori for a pizza crust making lesson and a sample of two delicious pizzas. The first one was a white pizza with rosemary, olive oil and sea salt. The second was a simple marinara topped pizza. Our guide explained that Italians don't put a huge amount of toppings on their pizzas - usually three or fewer. When it's your turn at the counter, simply spread your hands to show the amount of pizza you want. It's then sliced, wrapped in paper, folded and weighed to determine the cost. Pay the man and you're on your way!
Leaving the Campo de Fiori, we headed to the Jewish Ghetto for our next stop. Ok, now we're heading to a Pizza place for Jewish Food. In the Campo de Fiori market, we noticed the squash was sold with the blossoms attached. Our first treat at Pizza franco e cristina was a tempura style squash blossom. Very good. Next, we had filetti di baccalà, a fried cod dish using a similar batter to the squash blossoms. Very tender and flavorful, and something I'd never try on my own. Judging from the lunchtime crowd, this is a popular eatery in the Jewish Ghetto.
These brass markers are found among the cobblestones in front of residences where Jewish citizens were rounded up, on October 16, 1943, and taken to Auschwitz. Their names, date of birth, date arrested, which camp they were sent to, and the date of their death are commemorated on the plaque. It's a sobering realization, as you walk through this area and the sunlight reflects off these tributes, that most of these Roman Jews never returned to their homes.
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UNDER THE VATICAN
The construction of a parking garage for Vatican employees led to the discovery of the ruins of a necropolis. Here lie over 250 excavated tombs, including 40 mausoleums, decorated with interesting frescoes, urns and intricate mosaic floors. This 2,000 year old burial ground holds the remains of pagans and Christians alike, from a mixture of social classes.
LA BRUSCHETTA
The last time we were in Rome we found this cute little eatery down a side street off the Via Veneto. We ate there several times and were delighted to see that the same wonderful guys we met the last time were still there. It's a relatively inexpensive place by Rome standards, but opt for wine (€3) over water (€5).
OTHER ROMAN SITES
We found some interesting sites wandering around Rome by day. Then, fueled by Pizza and Sexy Wine, we headed out to tour some famous Roman sites by night.